Radon Mitigation in Elmwood

Elmwood is an older east-bank neighbourhood with much of its housing built between 1905 and 1950, immediately adjacent to the Red River. The combination of age and river proximity produces some of the most consistently damp crawl spaces we work in on that side of the city. Foundations are early concrete, block and occasionally stone, built shallow and without moisture detailing, and the surrounding clay holds water against them for weeks during melt.

The spaces themselves are typically small, low and difficult to access, which is part of why they go unaddressed for so long. Bare soil floors are common, as are open vents, deteriorated batt insulation and framing with elevated moisture content. We regularly document rot at sill plates and post bases, mould across joists and sheathing, and corrosion on any metal in the space. Because warm air rises through a house during the heating season, that crawlspace air ends up in the living area, which is why occupants often notice the smell long before they see the cause.

Older, shallow foundations need assessment before sealing. We check bearing, look for masonry deterioration, and determine whether water arrives from the surface, through the wall or up from the soil. The repair sequence is structural first, water management second, encapsulation third, with insulation moved to the perimeter and the space brought inside the heated envelope. Radon testing matters here as it does everywhere in Manitoba, and bare-soil crawlspaces are the primary entry route.

Elmwood calls are among the dampest we take on the east bank. Small, low crawl areas with bare soil, built shallow and close to the river, with mould on the joists and a smell that has been present for years. Access is frequently poor, which is part of why these spaces go unaddressed for so long.

Our first recommendation is an assessment of bearing and masonry condition, then drainage where groundwater is active, then a sealed floor to cut off vapour and soil gas. We also recommend a long-term radon test on these homes, because a bare soil floor directly beneath the living space is the most direct entry route a house can have.

Radon is a naturally occurring radioactive gas produced by the decay of uranium in soil and rock. It is colourless and odourless, it moves upward through soil, and it enters buildings through any opening in contact with the ground. Health Canada identifies it as the second leading cause of lung cancer after smoking, and sets a guideline of 200 becquerels per cubic metre for indoor air, recommending remedial action above that level. Manitoba consistently records some of the highest residential readings in Canada, which makes this a local issue rather than an abstract one.

A crawlspace is the most efficient radon entry point a house can have. Where there is exposed soil, or a thin unsealed membrane, soil gas moves into the space essentially unimpeded — and from there into the living area, because the stack effect pulls air upward through a house continuously during the heating season. Our long heating season means that pressure difference operates for a large part of the year. A house with a sealed basement slab but an open crawlspace under an addition can still have substantially elevated levels.

Testing has to come before mitigation, and it has to be done correctly. A long-term test of at least three months, ideally during the heating season when windows are closed and the stack effect is strongest, gives a representative result. Short-term tests are useful as a screening indicator but fluctuate too much to base a decision on. We will arrange or guide testing, and we would rather you test first than buy a mitigation system you may not need — though in a crawlspace with exposed soil, sealing the floor is worthwhile on moisture grounds regardless of the radon number.

Where mitigation is needed, the standard approach in a crawlspace is active sub-membrane depressurization. A sealed membrane is installed across the floor and up the walls — the same membrane used for encapsulation, which is why these two projects belong together — and a dedicated fan draws continuously from beneath it through a perforated collection pipe, venting above the roofline. That negative pressure under the membrane captures soil gas before it can enter the space. The system is simple and highly effective, but it depends entirely on how well the membrane is sealed, which is why installation quality matters more than equipment selection.

Post-mitigation verification is not optional in our view. After the system is running and the building has returned to normal operating conditions, the space and the living area should be retested to confirm the reduction. We also label the system, explain what the manometer reading means, and tell you what to check — because a mitigation fan is a mechanical device that will eventually fail, usually silently. A system nobody monitors is a system that may have stopped protecting you years ago.

Pressure and building dynamics explain why two apparently identical houses can test very differently, and why your neighbour's result tells you nothing about yours. Radon entry depends on the pressure difference between the soil and the building interior, and that depends on stack effect strength, exhaust appliances, mechanical ventilation balance, wind, and how tight the building is. A house with powerful kitchen and bathroom exhaust and no make-up air runs at a greater negative pressure, and draws correspondingly more soil gas. This is also why sealing work and mechanical changes can shift a reading in either direction, and why testing after any significant envelope work is sensible.

System design details separate a mitigation that works from one that merely hums. The collection point beneath the membrane needs a permeable layer — clean gravel or a drainage mat — so the fan can draw from the whole footprint rather than a single spot. The fan has to be sized to the soil's permeability and the area served: too little suction leaves parts of the footprint uncaptured, too much wastes energy and can pull conditioned air if the membrane has gaps. The exhaust must terminate above the roofline and away from windows and air intakes. And the pipe needs a manometer, so the system reports its own status.

Timing relative to encapsulation is the practical advice we give most often. If you are sealing a crawlspace for moisture reasons and you have not tested for radon, test first. The collection pipe and gravel layer belong under the membrane, installed before it goes down; retrofitting them means cutting open a barrier you just paid for and compromising its continuity. A long-term test takes three months, which is usually compatible with planning a project anyway. If the number comes back low, you have lost nothing but gained a documented baseline. If it comes back high, you have saved yourself from doing the job twice.