Radon Mitigation in Beausejour

Beausejour, about 50 kilometres northeast of Winnipeg on the Brokenhead River, sits on noticeably sandier and more gravelly ground than the Red River valley clay closer to the city. Better infiltration sounds like good news for crawlspaces, and in dry years it is. The complication is that permeable soil transmits a rising water table directly to the foundation. When the Brokenhead runs high or the regional water table climbs during melt, water arrives through the floor rather than running along the surface, and a floor barrier alone will not hold it back.

The town's housing includes a solid stock of pre-1960 wood-frame homes, many with shallow crawlspaces or part-crawl, part-basement foundations. We routinely find concrete that has spalled from decades of freeze-thaw cycling with moisture present, mortar loss in older block walls, and sill plates that have taken on enough water over the years to be soft at the ends. Insulation is usually fibreglass batt between floor joists, sagging and mould-stained — an assembly that traps moisture against the subfloor rather than keeping the floor warm.

Where groundwater can rise into the space, the correct sequence is interior drainage and a properly sized sump before encapsulation, so the system has somewhere to send water instead of pressing it against a sealed barrier. We then encapsulate with reinforced material carried up the walls, seal every penetration, move insulation to the perimeter, and add dehumidification if the space still needs active humidity control. For homes on well and septic, we insulate and seal those penetrations specifically against freezing, which is the failure mode that causes the most damage here in January.

Beausejour calls often surprise the homeowner, because the sandier ground drains well and the crawlspace has been dry for years. Then a wet spring raises the regional water table and water appears through the floor rather than down the walls. The second common call is from owners of pre-1960 homes who have found spalled concrete, lost mortar and soft sill plate ends — the cumulative result of decades of freeze-thaw cycling with moisture present.

Where groundwater can rise into a space, the sequence is not negotiable: interior drainage and a properly discharged sump before any barrier. A membrane over a floor that water comes up through will lift, hold water beneath it, and fail at its terminations. With drainage in place, the barrier has a job it can actually do — managing vapour and soil gas — and the pump handles the liquid water.

Our first recommendation here is to establish whether your water arrives from above or below, because in permeable soil the answer is less obvious than in clay. Staining patterns, efflorescence height, the timing of appearance and moisture readings in the soil at depth all contribute. On a property with private services, we also check that well and septic penetrations are sealed and insulated, since those are both envelope breaches and freeze risks in a space that runs cold.

Radon is a naturally occurring radioactive gas produced by the decay of uranium in soil and rock. It is colourless and odourless, it moves upward through soil, and it enters buildings through any opening in contact with the ground. Health Canada identifies it as the second leading cause of lung cancer after smoking, and sets a guideline of 200 becquerels per cubic metre for indoor air, recommending remedial action above that level. Manitoba consistently records some of the highest residential readings in Canada, which makes this a local issue rather than an abstract one.

A crawlspace is the most efficient radon entry point a house can have. Where there is exposed soil, or a thin unsealed membrane, soil gas moves into the space essentially unimpeded — and from there into the living area, because the stack effect pulls air upward through a house continuously during the heating season. Our long heating season means that pressure difference operates for a large part of the year. A house with a sealed basement slab but an open crawlspace under an addition can still have substantially elevated levels.

Testing has to come before mitigation, and it has to be done correctly. A long-term test of at least three months, ideally during the heating season when windows are closed and the stack effect is strongest, gives a representative result. Short-term tests are useful as a screening indicator but fluctuate too much to base a decision on. We will arrange or guide testing, and we would rather you test first than buy a mitigation system you may not need — though in a crawlspace with exposed soil, sealing the floor is worthwhile on moisture grounds regardless of the radon number.

Where mitigation is needed, the standard approach in a crawlspace is active sub-membrane depressurization. A sealed membrane is installed across the floor and up the walls — the same membrane used for encapsulation, which is why these two projects belong together — and a dedicated fan draws continuously from beneath it through a perforated collection pipe, venting above the roofline. That negative pressure under the membrane captures soil gas before it can enter the space. The system is simple and highly effective, but it depends entirely on how well the membrane is sealed, which is why installation quality matters more than equipment selection.

Post-mitigation verification is not optional in our view. After the system is running and the building has returned to normal operating conditions, the space and the living area should be retested to confirm the reduction. We also label the system, explain what the manometer reading means, and tell you what to check — because a mitigation fan is a mechanical device that will eventually fail, usually silently. A system nobody monitors is a system that may have stopped protecting you years ago.

Pressure and building dynamics explain why two apparently identical houses can test very differently, and why your neighbour's result tells you nothing about yours. Radon entry depends on the pressure difference between the soil and the building interior, and that depends on stack effect strength, exhaust appliances, mechanical ventilation balance, wind, and how tight the building is. A house with powerful kitchen and bathroom exhaust and no make-up air runs at a greater negative pressure, and draws correspondingly more soil gas. This is also why sealing work and mechanical changes can shift a reading in either direction, and why testing after any significant envelope work is sensible.

System design details separate a mitigation that works from one that merely hums. The collection point beneath the membrane needs a permeable layer — clean gravel or a drainage mat — so the fan can draw from the whole footprint rather than a single spot. The fan has to be sized to the soil's permeability and the area served: too little suction leaves parts of the footprint uncaptured, too much wastes energy and can pull conditioned air if the membrane has gaps. The exhaust must terminate above the roofline and away from windows and air intakes. And the pipe needs a manometer, so the system reports its own status.

Timing relative to encapsulation is the practical advice we give most often. If you are sealing a crawlspace for moisture reasons and you have not tested for radon, test first. The collection pipe and gravel layer belong under the membrane, installed before it goes down; retrofitting them means cutting open a barrier you just paid for and compromising its continuity. A long-term test takes three months, which is usually compatible with planning a project anyway. If the number comes back low, you have lost nothing but gained a documented baseline. If it comes back high, you have saved yourself from doing the job twice.