Radon Mitigation in St. Andrews

St. Andrews stretches along the Red River north toward Lockport, and it contains some of the oldest continuously occupied residential property in Manitoba. That history shows up under the floor. River-lot homes here can have fieldstone or early concrete crawlspace walls, uneven excavated floors, and additions layered on across a century with no consistent foundation depth. These spaces were never built to be dry; they were built to be ventilated and forgotten, which is why we so often find rot at the sill plate and mould on the subfloor sheathing.

Groundwater is the constant. Proximity to the Red River keeps the water table high, and the clay-dominant soil holds water against foundations instead of letting it drain away. Properties near the river also deal with ice-jam flood risk in spring, which can raise local water levels fast. Newer acreage homes built in the last three decades generally sit higher and drain better, but many have unheated crawlspaces under additions and attached garages where frost penetration and condensation are the recurring issues rather than standing water.

Working on older St. Andrews foundations requires care that a modern crawlspace does not. Rubble-stone walls cannot simply be sealed and ignored; they need to be assessed for mortar loss and bearing capacity first, and in some cases parged or structurally reinforced before any barrier goes in. We also keep historic drainage in mind — several river lots have original field drainage that still influences where water travels. We document all of it with moisture readings and photographs, then build a system that keeps the space dry without trapping moisture inside a wall that needs to breathe.

The calls we get from St. Andrews split neatly by housing era. Owners of the older river-lot properties call about damp, low crawl areas with fieldstone or early concrete walls, rot at the sill plate and a smell that has been there as long as they have owned the house. Owners of newer acreage homes call about unheated crawlspaces under additions and attached garages, where the complaints are frost on the subfloor, cold floors above and occasionally a frozen line. Different centuries, different problems, same municipality.

Historic foundations need a different approach and it is worth saying plainly. A rubble-stone wall should not be wrapped and sealed tight, because trapping moisture inside masonry in a freeze-thaw climate damages it. For these walls we assess mortar condition and bearing first, repoint and parge where material has been lost, relieve water pressure with drainage, and seal the soil floor to cut off vapour and soil gas — while leaving the wall able to manage moisture. That is a judgement call made on site, not a product selection.

On the practical side, the RM of St. Andrews administers permits and most properties are on private water and septic, so penetration sealing and freeze protection form part of every scope. Our first suggestion for an older river-lot property is almost always to establish the condition of the masonry and the framing moisture content before discussing systems. If the sill plate has section loss, that is the project, and sealing the space would be putting a lid on a structural problem.

Radon is a naturally occurring radioactive gas produced by the decay of uranium in soil and rock. It is colourless and odourless, it moves upward through soil, and it enters buildings through any opening in contact with the ground. Health Canada identifies it as the second leading cause of lung cancer after smoking, and sets a guideline of 200 becquerels per cubic metre for indoor air, recommending remedial action above that level. Manitoba consistently records some of the highest residential readings in Canada, which makes this a local issue rather than an abstract one.

A crawlspace is the most efficient radon entry point a house can have. Where there is exposed soil, or a thin unsealed membrane, soil gas moves into the space essentially unimpeded — and from there into the living area, because the stack effect pulls air upward through a house continuously during the heating season. Our long heating season means that pressure difference operates for a large part of the year. A house with a sealed basement slab but an open crawlspace under an addition can still have substantially elevated levels.

Testing has to come before mitigation, and it has to be done correctly. A long-term test of at least three months, ideally during the heating season when windows are closed and the stack effect is strongest, gives a representative result. Short-term tests are useful as a screening indicator but fluctuate too much to base a decision on. We will arrange or guide testing, and we would rather you test first than buy a mitigation system you may not need — though in a crawlspace with exposed soil, sealing the floor is worthwhile on moisture grounds regardless of the radon number.

Where mitigation is needed, the standard approach in a crawlspace is active sub-membrane depressurization. A sealed membrane is installed across the floor and up the walls — the same membrane used for encapsulation, which is why these two projects belong together — and a dedicated fan draws continuously from beneath it through a perforated collection pipe, venting above the roofline. That negative pressure under the membrane captures soil gas before it can enter the space. The system is simple and highly effective, but it depends entirely on how well the membrane is sealed, which is why installation quality matters more than equipment selection.

Post-mitigation verification is not optional in our view. After the system is running and the building has returned to normal operating conditions, the space and the living area should be retested to confirm the reduction. We also label the system, explain what the manometer reading means, and tell you what to check — because a mitigation fan is a mechanical device that will eventually fail, usually silently. A system nobody monitors is a system that may have stopped protecting you years ago.

Pressure and building dynamics explain why two apparently identical houses can test very differently, and why your neighbour's result tells you nothing about yours. Radon entry depends on the pressure difference between the soil and the building interior, and that depends on stack effect strength, exhaust appliances, mechanical ventilation balance, wind, and how tight the building is. A house with powerful kitchen and bathroom exhaust and no make-up air runs at a greater negative pressure, and draws correspondingly more soil gas. This is also why sealing work and mechanical changes can shift a reading in either direction, and why testing after any significant envelope work is sensible.

System design details separate a mitigation that works from one that merely hums. The collection point beneath the membrane needs a permeable layer — clean gravel or a drainage mat — so the fan can draw from the whole footprint rather than a single spot. The fan has to be sized to the soil's permeability and the area served: too little suction leaves parts of the footprint uncaptured, too much wastes energy and can pull conditioned air if the membrane has gaps. The exhaust must terminate above the roofline and away from windows and air intakes. And the pipe needs a manometer, so the system reports its own status.

Timing relative to encapsulation is the practical advice we give most often. If you are sealing a crawlspace for moisture reasons and you have not tested for radon, test first. The collection pipe and gravel layer belong under the membrane, installed before it goes down; retrofitting them means cutting open a barrier you just paid for and compromising its continuity. A long-term test takes three months, which is usually compatible with planning a project anyway. If the number comes back low, you have lost nothing but gained a documented baseline. If it comes back high, you have saved yourself from doing the job twice.