Radon Mitigation in Landmark

Landmark, east of the Red River in the RM of Taché, is a farming community that has grown into a commuter town while keeping much of its original rural housing stock. Those older homes are where we do most of our crawlspace work. They sit on heavy clay, typically on shallow footings, and many have crawlspaces that were excavated just deep enough to run services. Soil floors, open vents and batt insulation between the joists are the standard configuration, and it is an assembly that fails slowly and invisibly in our climate.

The clay around Landmark drains poorly, so snowmelt and heavy rain stay at the surface and move laterally. Foundation backfill is the easiest route down, which is why so many crawlspaces here take water in the first warm week of spring, while the subsoil is still frozen and nothing can percolate. Through summer, the same spaces swing the other way: humid outside air enters through vents, condenses on cool soil and framing, and keeps wood moisture content in the range where mould thrives. By the time there is a smell in the house, the framing has usually been damp for years.

For rural properties like these, we build systems that run unattended. Drainage is installed where the water actually arrives, with a sump and freeze-resistant discharge routed well clear of the foundation and septic field. The barrier is reinforced, mechanically fastened, and sealed at every well, septic and plumbing penetration. Insulation moves from between the joists to the perimeter wall so the floor assembly stays warm and dry, and the space is brought into the conditioned envelope. Where we find tipped piers or soft sill plates, structural repair comes first so the rest of the system has something stable to seal against.

Calls from Landmark are mostly from owners of the older rural housing stock, and they tend to arrive after someone has finally gone into a crawlspace that had been left alone for years. The findings are consistent: soil floor, open vents, batts sagging out of the joists, elevated framing moisture, mould on the subfloor sheathing, and sometimes a pier that is no longer bearing properly. The second category of call is seasonal — water in the first warm week of spring, gone by June.

Rural systems have to run without supervision, which drives our specifications. Mechanically fastened barriers rather than loose poly. Sumps with freeze-resistant discharge routed clear of the septic field. Dehumidifiers with permanent drains. A high-water alarm where a failure would cause real damage. And insulation at the perimeter rather than the ceiling, so well lines and plumbing in the space are protected by ambient temperature rather than by pipe sleeves alone.

Our first recommendation on a Landmark property is almost always exterior water management plus a structural assessment, in parallel. The exterior work is cheap and removes much of the load on dense clay. The structural assessment tells you whether the piers and sill plates can support a sealed system or need correction first. Together they define the project, and we would rather establish both before quoting anything.

Radon is a naturally occurring radioactive gas produced by the decay of uranium in soil and rock. It is colourless and odourless, it moves upward through soil, and it enters buildings through any opening in contact with the ground. Health Canada identifies it as the second leading cause of lung cancer after smoking, and sets a guideline of 200 becquerels per cubic metre for indoor air, recommending remedial action above that level. Manitoba consistently records some of the highest residential readings in Canada, which makes this a local issue rather than an abstract one.

A crawlspace is the most efficient radon entry point a house can have. Where there is exposed soil, or a thin unsealed membrane, soil gas moves into the space essentially unimpeded — and from there into the living area, because the stack effect pulls air upward through a house continuously during the heating season. Our long heating season means that pressure difference operates for a large part of the year. A house with a sealed basement slab but an open crawlspace under an addition can still have substantially elevated levels.

Testing has to come before mitigation, and it has to be done correctly. A long-term test of at least three months, ideally during the heating season when windows are closed and the stack effect is strongest, gives a representative result. Short-term tests are useful as a screening indicator but fluctuate too much to base a decision on. We will arrange or guide testing, and we would rather you test first than buy a mitigation system you may not need — though in a crawlspace with exposed soil, sealing the floor is worthwhile on moisture grounds regardless of the radon number.

Where mitigation is needed, the standard approach in a crawlspace is active sub-membrane depressurization. A sealed membrane is installed across the floor and up the walls — the same membrane used for encapsulation, which is why these two projects belong together — and a dedicated fan draws continuously from beneath it through a perforated collection pipe, venting above the roofline. That negative pressure under the membrane captures soil gas before it can enter the space. The system is simple and highly effective, but it depends entirely on how well the membrane is sealed, which is why installation quality matters more than equipment selection.

Post-mitigation verification is not optional in our view. After the system is running and the building has returned to normal operating conditions, the space and the living area should be retested to confirm the reduction. We also label the system, explain what the manometer reading means, and tell you what to check — because a mitigation fan is a mechanical device that will eventually fail, usually silently. A system nobody monitors is a system that may have stopped protecting you years ago.

Pressure and building dynamics explain why two apparently identical houses can test very differently, and why your neighbour's result tells you nothing about yours. Radon entry depends on the pressure difference between the soil and the building interior, and that depends on stack effect strength, exhaust appliances, mechanical ventilation balance, wind, and how tight the building is. A house with powerful kitchen and bathroom exhaust and no make-up air runs at a greater negative pressure, and draws correspondingly more soil gas. This is also why sealing work and mechanical changes can shift a reading in either direction, and why testing after any significant envelope work is sensible.

System design details separate a mitigation that works from one that merely hums. The collection point beneath the membrane needs a permeable layer — clean gravel or a drainage mat — so the fan can draw from the whole footprint rather than a single spot. The fan has to be sized to the soil's permeability and the area served: too little suction leaves parts of the footprint uncaptured, too much wastes energy and can pull conditioned air if the membrane has gaps. The exhaust must terminate above the roofline and away from windows and air intakes. And the pipe needs a manometer, so the system reports its own status.

Timing relative to encapsulation is the practical advice we give most often. If you are sealing a crawlspace for moisture reasons and you have not tested for radon, test first. The collection pipe and gravel layer belong under the membrane, installed before it goes down; retrofitting them means cutting open a barrier you just paid for and compromising its continuity. A long-term test takes three months, which is usually compatible with planning a project anyway. If the number comes back low, you have lost nothing but gained a documented baseline. If it comes back high, you have saved yourself from doing the job twice.