Radon Mitigation in St. Adolphe

St. Adolphe is a ring-dike community on the Red River south of Winnipeg, which tells you most of what you need to know about its groundwater. The dike protects the town from river flooding, but it does not lower the water table, and during a significant melt the ground inside the protected area can remain saturated for weeks. Interior drainage systems and pumping matter enormously here. For a crawlspace, saturated surrounding soil means sustained pressure on walls and floor, and any unsealed penetration becomes an entry point.

The soil is classic Red River clay — heavy, slow draining, strongly expansive. Homes range from older village properties to newer residential construction, and crawlspace conditions vary accordingly. In older homes we find shallow foundations, soil floors, open vents and decades of accumulated moisture damage in the framing. In newer homes the structure is sound but the crawlspace is often treated as dead space: no barrier, no insulation at the perimeter, no humidity control, and a sump that was installed without much thought about where the discharge goes.

We detail systems here with the assumption that the surrounding ground will be saturated at least some weeks every year. That means a reinforced barrier mechanically fastened and sealed up the walls, drainage routed to a sump sized for sustained operation rather than occasional use, discharge placed where it cannot recirculate back toward the foundation or interfere with septic, and perimeter insulation so the space can be kept conditioned. We also check sill plates and rim joists carefully, because in homes that have taken water repeatedly, that is where rot is usually furthest along.

St. Adolphe calls follow the melt. Inside a ring dike, the river is held back but the enclosed ground can stay saturated for weeks, and interior drainage and pumping do the real work. Homeowners call when a crawlspace that has been fine for years begins taking water, usually in a year with a fast thaw. The slower-burning calls are about what sustained spring saturation has done to framing over time: rot at sill plates, soft post bases, mould through the joist bays.

For a property inside the dike, we specify systems on the assumption that the surrounding soil will be saturated for part of every spring. That means a sump rated for sustained running rather than occasional use, discharge placed where it cannot recirculate or interfere with septic, and a barrier detailed to be serviceable at the pit. We also check sill plates and rim joists carefully, because in homes that have taken water repeatedly that is where decay is usually furthest along and where it is easiest to miss.

Our first suggestion for a St. Adolphe homeowner is to establish the property's water history and the condition of the framing before discussing products. If the sill plate has section loss, structural repair is the project and sealing would be premature. If the framing is sound and the issue is seasonal saturation, drainage and a properly specified pump are the core of the system and everything else is secondary.

Radon is a naturally occurring radioactive gas produced by the decay of uranium in soil and rock. It is colourless and odourless, it moves upward through soil, and it enters buildings through any opening in contact with the ground. Health Canada identifies it as the second leading cause of lung cancer after smoking, and sets a guideline of 200 becquerels per cubic metre for indoor air, recommending remedial action above that level. Manitoba consistently records some of the highest residential readings in Canada, which makes this a local issue rather than an abstract one.

A crawlspace is the most efficient radon entry point a house can have. Where there is exposed soil, or a thin unsealed membrane, soil gas moves into the space essentially unimpeded — and from there into the living area, because the stack effect pulls air upward through a house continuously during the heating season. Our long heating season means that pressure difference operates for a large part of the year. A house with a sealed basement slab but an open crawlspace under an addition can still have substantially elevated levels.

Testing has to come before mitigation, and it has to be done correctly. A long-term test of at least three months, ideally during the heating season when windows are closed and the stack effect is strongest, gives a representative result. Short-term tests are useful as a screening indicator but fluctuate too much to base a decision on. We will arrange or guide testing, and we would rather you test first than buy a mitigation system you may not need — though in a crawlspace with exposed soil, sealing the floor is worthwhile on moisture grounds regardless of the radon number.

Where mitigation is needed, the standard approach in a crawlspace is active sub-membrane depressurization. A sealed membrane is installed across the floor and up the walls — the same membrane used for encapsulation, which is why these two projects belong together — and a dedicated fan draws continuously from beneath it through a perforated collection pipe, venting above the roofline. That negative pressure under the membrane captures soil gas before it can enter the space. The system is simple and highly effective, but it depends entirely on how well the membrane is sealed, which is why installation quality matters more than equipment selection.

Post-mitigation verification is not optional in our view. After the system is running and the building has returned to normal operating conditions, the space and the living area should be retested to confirm the reduction. We also label the system, explain what the manometer reading means, and tell you what to check — because a mitigation fan is a mechanical device that will eventually fail, usually silently. A system nobody monitors is a system that may have stopped protecting you years ago.

Pressure and building dynamics explain why two apparently identical houses can test very differently, and why your neighbour's result tells you nothing about yours. Radon entry depends on the pressure difference between the soil and the building interior, and that depends on stack effect strength, exhaust appliances, mechanical ventilation balance, wind, and how tight the building is. A house with powerful kitchen and bathroom exhaust and no make-up air runs at a greater negative pressure, and draws correspondingly more soil gas. This is also why sealing work and mechanical changes can shift a reading in either direction, and why testing after any significant envelope work is sensible.

System design details separate a mitigation that works from one that merely hums. The collection point beneath the membrane needs a permeable layer — clean gravel or a drainage mat — so the fan can draw from the whole footprint rather than a single spot. The fan has to be sized to the soil's permeability and the area served: too little suction leaves parts of the footprint uncaptured, too much wastes energy and can pull conditioned air if the membrane has gaps. The exhaust must terminate above the roofline and away from windows and air intakes. And the pipe needs a manometer, so the system reports its own status.

Timing relative to encapsulation is the practical advice we give most often. If you are sealing a crawlspace for moisture reasons and you have not tested for radon, test first. The collection pipe and gravel layer belong under the membrane, installed before it goes down; retrofitting them means cutting open a barrier you just paid for and compromising its continuity. A long-term test takes three months, which is usually compatible with planning a project anyway. If the number comes back low, you have lost nothing but gained a documented baseline. If it comes back high, you have saved yourself from doing the job twice.